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A Guide to Men’s Bespoke Jacket Styles

Commissioning a bespoke suit is a timeless experience, offering the opportunity to create a garment that embodies individual style and sophistication. After the selection of fabric, it is essential to have a clear understanding of the various style options available to develop your bespoke jacket. In this guide, we’ll explore the fundamentals of men’s suit styles that serve as a compass for achieving sartorial perfection.

Type of Fit

Classic Fit:

The classic fit is characterized by its traditional, timeless silhouette. It offers a generous amount of room throughout the jacket and trousers, providing comfort and ease of movement. Ideal for those who prefer a relaxed and traditional look, the classic fit exudes elegance and sophistication.

Modern Fit:

For a sleeker, more contemporary aesthetic, the modern fit is an excellent choice. This style maintains a trimmer silhouette compared to the classic fit, with slightly narrower shoulders and a tapered waist. The modern fit strikes a balance between traditional and trendy, offering a versatile option suitable for various occasions.

Slim Fit:

If you’re aiming for a sharp, tailored appearance, the slim fit is the way to go. This style features a closer fit to the body, with narrower sleeves, a defined waist, and tapered trousers. The slim fit accentuates your physique and lends a modern, fashionable flair to your ensemble. However, it’s essential to ensure that the slim fit is comfortable and allows for unrestricted movement.

Single vs. Double-Breasted

After determining the desired fit, the next decision revolves around the jacket’s closure style: single-breasted or double-breasted. This choice significantly influences the suit’s overall aesthetic and level of formality.


Single-breasted jackets feature a narrow overlap of fabric at the front and typically fasten with one or two buttons. This classic style is versatile and suitable for a wide range of occasions, from business meetings to formal events. Single-breasted suits are generally perceived as more understated and streamlined, making them a popular choice for everyday wear.


In contrast, double-breasted jackets boast a wider overlap of fabric and are characterized by their distinctive front closure with two parallel columns of buttons. This style exudes sophistication and elegance, making it a favorite for formal events and special occasions. Double-breasted suits are renowned for their commanding presence and sartorial flair, making them a statement piece in any wardrobe.

Number of Buttons:

Regardless of whether you opt for a single or double-breasted jacket, you’ll need to consider the number of buttons. The number of buttons can vary, typically ranging from one to three for single-breasted suits and four to six for double-breasted suits. This choice is largely a matter of personal preference and can impact the overall look and feel of the jacket.

Lapel Styles: Notch, Peak, or Shawl Lapel

The lapel style of your suit jacket plays a significant role in defining its aesthetic and level of formality.

Notch Lapel:

The most common lapel style, the notch lapel features a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar. It’s a versatile choice suitable for both business and social settings, offering a balanced and understated look.

Peak Lapel:

Characterized by its upward-pointing peak at the lapel’s outer edges, the peak lapel adds a touch of elegance and formality to the suit. It’s often found on double-breasted jackets and is favored for formal occasions or when making a bold fashion statement.

Shawl Lapel:

With a smooth, rounded shape that extends from the collar to the front closure, the shawl lapel exudes sophistication and refinement. It’s commonly associated with formalwear, particularly tuxedos and eveningwear, offering a timeless and luxurious aesthetic.

Pocket Styles

The design and placement of pockets on your suit jacket contribute to its functionality and visual appeal.

Regular Pockets:

Regular pockets feature a flap of fabric that covers the pocket opening, providing a clean and streamlined look. They’re versatile and suitable for both formal and casual suits, adding a polished finishing touch to the jacket.

Jetted Pockets:

Jetted pockets have a slit opening without any visible flaps or folds, creating a sleek and minimalist appearance. They’re commonly found on formalwear and offer a sophisticated, refined look.

Patch Pockets:

Patch pockets are sewn onto the outside of the jacket without any additional lining, giving the suit a more relaxed and casual vibe. They’re often seen on sports coats and casual suits, adding a touch of laid-back charm to the ensemble.

Ticket Pockets:

The ticket pocket is the small flapped or jetted pocket placed just above the right main hip pocket on a men’s jacket. It is normally roughly half as wide as the pocket below it. Historically it’s purpose was to store tickets, hence the name of the pocket, however today it is nothing more than a statement of style.


Single vs. Double Vents vs. No Vent

The vent refers to the slit or opening at the back of the suit jacket, which serves to allow ease of movement and prevent wrinkling while sitting or walking.

Single Vent:

A single vent features a single slit at the center back of the jacket, offering a classic and traditional look. It provides sufficient room for movement and is commonly found on American-style suits.

Double Vents:

Double vents, also known as side vents, feature two slits at the sides of the jacket, providing a more tailored and streamlined silhouette. They offer enhanced mobility and are favored for British and European-style suits, adding a touch of sophistication and modernity.

No Vent:

Some suit jackets may feature no vent at all, creating a clean and sleek look with no interruptions to the jacket’s silhouette. While less common, no vent jackets offer a minimalist aesthetic and are suitable for slim-fit and fashion-forward styles.

Full Canvas vs. Half Canvas

The canvas refers to the layer of material between the suit fabric and lining, providing structure, shape, and support to the jacket.

Full Canvas:

A full canvas construction involves stitching the canvas layer throughout the entire front of the jacket, from the lapel to the hem. This results in a more natural drape, better moldability to the body, and superior longevity. Full canvas suits are considered the pinnacle of craftsmanship and offer unparalleled comfort and fit.

Half Canvas:

A half canvas construction features a canvas layer that extends only halfway down the front of the jacket, typically ending at the chest or waist. This construction technique offers some of the benefits of a full canvas suit, such as improved shape retention and breathability, at a more affordable price point. Half canvas suits strike a balance between quality and affordability, making them a popular choice for many discerning customers.

Full Lined vs. Half Lined

The lining of a suit jacket serves both functional and aesthetic purposes, providing structure, comfort, and visual appeal.

Full Lined:

A full lined jacket features a lining that extends throughout the entire interior of the jacket, covering the seams and providing a smooth, polished appearance. Full lined jackets offer added warmth and durability and are commonly found in colder climates or for formal occasions.

Half Lined:

A half lined jacket features a lining that only covers the upper half or certain sections of the interior, leaving the lower half or back exposed. This construction allows for increased breathability and flexibility, making it ideal for warmer climates or lightweight fabrics. Half lined jackets offer a lighter and more relaxed feel while maintaining a clean and tailored look.


Navigating the world of bespoke suits requires careful consideration of various factors, from fit/cut to closure style. By understanding the basics of men’s suit styles and making informed decisions, you can ensure that your bespoke suit reflects your individuality and enhances your confidence. With the guidance and expertise of Der Herr’s consultants, commissioning a bespoke suit becomes a gratifying journey towards sartorial excellence.

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